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Eli Pope

A Textiles Vocabulary

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Part 4

Excercise 4.1 Part 1

I spent a while looking at my previous work to choose some pieces that were inspiring for me in terms of yarn design and linear qualities.  Settling on two pieces I first did some sketch book work and sourced some materials both found and bought to get started on my first 30cm experiments.

My charcoal sketch immediately gave me the thought of using wool so I could get a fuzzy/fluffy edge much like the effect given by the smudged charcoal.   I used balls of mohair yarn and twisted them together for my first 30cm sample.  I then added a 5cm repeat of little balls wrapped around the entwined yarns.  Luckily the mohair was very easily tangled as it is so fluffy so just winding the yarn around was enough o secure it in place.  My second idea from this picture was to use 3 separate pieces of linen thread and then joined by cut felt circles which I stitched on in a 1cm repeat.

When working from the stitched paper sample there were so many different shapes and textures I had lots of ideas.  I decided to  separate the sample into sections and create different linear yarns from each one as the textures and shapes in the stitched paper gave me separate ideas.

My first thought was to create a linear form of the flower loops on the paper sample.  I  decided to finger knit some  of the same acrylic yarn to create a looped strand that I could then add black thread to like the black cotton stitched into the centre of the flower.

In my next sample I wanted to recreate the crumpled paper in some way so I cut a strip of cotton muslin, twisted it and tied it with bright pink ribbon then added pale pink embroidery thread entwined down the sides like the embroidered flower petals.

In my other samples I used some different materials including wire and beads to try and achieve texture and different zig zag shapes.  I also used stitched loops of material and then cut them to give the impression of flowers.

These 30cm samples have given me some fantastic ideas of how I want to develop them and create my 1metre long pieces in the next stage, it has also got me thinking about my yarn research.  Although I will be posting research in my online blog I think I also want to create a physical yarn research folder so I can go more in depth and include samples and experimentation alongside the written research.

Wool

Wool

  • A natural product
  • Biodegradable
  • An Insulator
  • Breathable
  • Resilient and Elastic
  • Trans Seasonal
  • Easy Care*
  • Odour Resistant
  • Safe
  • Provides natural UV Protection

Wool is a protein fibre formed in the skin of a sheep and is 100% natural, it is also renewable, as every year a sheep will produce a new fleece.  The ‘ecological’ properties of this fibre don’t stop there as it also can be returned to the soil and it will decompose in a relatively short space of time, making it a biodegradable product that doesn’t harm the environment.

Wool is a ‘hygroscopic’ fibre, which means as humidity in the air rises and falls, the fibre releases water vapour.  Heat is generated and retained during the absorption pase making it a really good insulator.  The structure of wool fibres are crimped and when they are tightly packed together they form millions of tiny pockets of air.  This structure is what allows it to absorb and release moisture, either from the air or from the perspiration of the wearer – without compromising ts thermal efficiency.  Wool has the capacity to absorb moisture vapour of that up to 30% of its own weight making it extremely breathable.

The strength of wool fibres mean that it is very resilient and resistant to tearing.  They are able to be bent back on themselves up to 20,000 times without breaking.  Due to the crimped structure of the fibres it has the ability to stretch comfortably and return to shape so can be worn without sagging and wrinkling.  It also retains liquids well so is great for dyeing and rich colours can be produced which are colourfast.

The waxy coating on wool fibres make them stain resistant and anti-static (less dust) and *recent innovations mean that some products can be machine washed and tumble dried making them very easy care.

The Campaign for Wool is a global initiative to raise awareness of wool in all its forms and its usefulness and renewable benefits in fashion, homeware and the textile industry.  Patron HRH The Prince of Wales.

www.campaignforwool.org

#LoveWool

The Wool Lab is a seasonal guide to new trends in the best wool fabrics and yarns available in the world.  It showcases samples of fabrics commercially available for the textile industry.  Its aims are to inspire and influence emerging artists, fashions and trends.  Presented at trade shows and created alongside some of the worlds best spinners and weavers fusing tradition with contemporary practice it is produced seasonally Autumn/Winter and Spring/Summer.  Taking the form of mood boards with samples, photography and colour swatches it aims to promote the latest innovations in Merino Wool.

  • Wool products that feel soft on the skin
  • UV protection
  • Aromatherapy
  • Merino Touch ( luxury at a fraction of the cost )
  • Casualisation of fashion trends

Merino Wool is extremely hardwearing so a perfect choice for home interiors, including upholstery, carpets, floor coverings, curtains aswell as sleepwear, blankets, cushions and throws.  Due to its beautiful next to skin softness and drape when a product is produced it is a fabulous fibre for fashion designers and the high end luxury market.  It also has great elasticity so can be knitted or woven for statement pieces and fashion garments.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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